204 East 15th Street
Eldon, Missouri 65026
The Carburetor Shop has a large selection of individual carburetor parts. Individual parts that are contained in one of our repair kits are sold only with the kit. Other parts will be sold only with the purchase of a repair kit. Some types of parts are sold exchange only. Please see below.
Parts for specific brands
Types of parts
Most original equipment chokes have some copywrited information ie maker's name, etc. Many original chokes can be replaced with a reproduction generic choke that has no marking. The generic choke is MUCH less expensive. Always specify if you are building a 'driver' or a 'numbers matching show car' when asking about an integral choke.
Many of the 1920's carburetors, especially those produced by Marvel, used heat risers. These have replaceable steel tubing inserts, generally of vary odd sizes. Pinholes in these tubes allow raw exhaust into the intake system, and cause a lean condition. Follow the link for a comprehensive listing of these heat riser tubes, many of which we have for sale.
We have an excellent selection of tuning parts for high performance Carter carburetors.
Over the past 20 plus years, we have purchased the obsolete choke pull-off inventories of a couple of major aftermarket companies, as well as many distributors and jobbers. We have THOUSANDS of choke pull-offs up to and including the 1974 model year. As we previously had inadequate cataloging, these have not been listed for sale until now. We now have adequate cataloging, and have indexed choke pull-offs used on most Carter, Rochester, and Stromberg carburetors up to and including the 1974 model year. We are in the process of indexing choke pull-offs used on Holley carburetors. Choke pulloffs will be sold ONLY with the purchase of a carburetor rebuilding kit. Ask about a choke pull-off when calling about a kit for your carburetor.
Due to legal ramifications, tags will NOT be sold unless we restore the carburetor. No exceptions to the above.
Many mechanics have been conditioned to ask for a float each time they rebuild a carburetor, due to the reasonable price of modern, mass-produced floats, and the propensity of nitrophyl (foam) floats to absorb gasoline after time. In dealing with older, NON-CURRENT-PRODUCTION brass floats, neither of the above are true, and a mechanic should attempt to 'save' the float if at all possible.
The first step is to clean the float and inspect it for obvious damage. Small dings and dents are quite common, even in unused floats, and occurred when the manufacturer shipped the floats in bulk. Major dents (generally caused by water freezing in the carburetor) are not generally repairable. If one can hear liquid sloshing around inside the float, skip to the next paragraph. If the float looks to be reasonably damage-free, it should be tested. Testing is accomplished by grasping the float arm with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and submerging the float in very hot water. The hot water will pressurize the air inside the float, and a leaky float will blow a stream of bubbles.
If the float should need repair, it is important to understand how the float was originally produced. Virtually all brass float pontoons (the floating part) are composed of two pieces (a few are more) of brass soldered together. The pieces differ in the seam area, as one piece has a male seam and the other a female seam. One float piece will also have a small hole for temperature equilization. This hole will be covered by a small drop of solder, and will be as far from the seam as possible. The manufacturer would solder the two pieces together, allow the float to cool completely, AND THEN close the equilization hole. Soldering MUST be done using a soldering 'iron'. Repair should not be attempted using either a torch, or a soldering gun. If you plan on disregarding this advice, read the next paragraph first! The following procedure works for us (no, we will not repair your float unless we restore the entire carburetor): First, if liquid is present inside the float, find the hole, and remove the liquid by placing the hole down inside the hot water. The pressure will force the liquid from the float. If the float has much liquid, it may be necessary to remove the float from the hot water, allow the float to cool, and repeat the hot water dip. Once the liquid has been removed, and the leak has been marked, open the equilization hole by removing the solder. Solder the leak closed using as little solder as possible. A small piece of tape over the equilization hole will allow the hot water test to be preformed. If there are no leaks, remove the tape, and ALLOW THE FLOAT TO COOL COMPLETELY before closing the equilization hole. A final test, and you have 'saved' a valuable float.
In the event of a float which cannot be saved, or one that is missing, or incorrect, The Carburetor Shop has an excellent selection of USED floats dating back to the early teens. These floats are inspected, cleaned, and tested by us; and are sold only with the purchase of a carburetor kit. With no offense meant to anyone, THESE FLOATS ARE NOT RETURNABLE FOR ANY REASON.